First there was Sydney: settled in 1788. Then there was Hobart: settled in 1802. And, believe it or not, the third place in Australia to be settled was George Town, just north of Launceston. This settlement took place in 1804, two years, even, before Launceston.
Today, you would hardly credit it. George Town is tiny, and not exactly thriving. There are remnants of that time in a couple of lovely colonial buildings surviving still: one where John Batman stayed enroute to attempt to establish the city of Melbourne. Another was the Watch House.
A few kilometres out of town down the mouth of the Tamar at Low Head lies one of the earliest pilot settlements erected in Australia. It has been in continuous operation since 1805. The earliest pilots lit a large fire on the head above the rocks, stoking it all night to make sure the whalers, sealers and merchants sailing past would be aware of the danger. Later, a rubble and stucco lighthouse was erected to warn of Hebe Reef where eight or ten boats have been shipwrecked.
Low Head Pilot's settlement was home to a motley crew. The first pilot ended up a pirate; the second harbour master found better working conditions as a bushranger, while the earliest lighthouse keepers had convict helpers, who had to be locked up each night.
The remains of their colonial village, comprising houses and workplaces for the pilots, cable workers and bosses, survives. Painted in pristine white and red it looks crispy clean and immaculate.
Just around the headland we camped that night at Bridport where an old jetty that serviced the merchant ships runs far out to sea, and where moonlight slices through the waters where pirates once hoisted their sails.
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| Historic George Town, third settlement in Australia |
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